Thursday, December 10, 2015

Sunday – Monday, November 15 – 16 ~ Home Again!


Our last day dawned clear, both the air and the streets!



Our flight was not until after 2:00 in the afternoon but Kahlid had us all on the bus by nine a.m.  Elva and I had no problem getting our bags out even earlier than the required 7:30 and were having breakfast by then.  We greeted Kahlid and thanked him for his kindness and for sharing his beloved country with us. With our sandwiches tucked away, after one final check of the room, we set out for our two hour bus ride back to Casablanca.

The time on the bus passed quickly as we checked to be sure we had contact information with our new friends, sand along to one last hearing of As Time Goes By, and Crosby and Hope’s On the Road to Morocco! Wrong kind of taxi they are riding.  Remember, no camels here, just dromedaries!
Laundry lined our way as did hundreds of satellite dishes! The landscape was dotted with dozens of small mosques.



Before reaching the Mohammed V airport we stopped for a break at a very nice roadside place.  Along one side of a wide patio was a restaurant.  On the other side was the open air kitchen where they even baked fresh bread.

 
 


Tagine would be the preferred dish here.  It looks like they are ready to severe a hundred at a time!


 As always there were young families enjoying a playground break. 

 
We arrived to the airport by 11:30 and quickly grabbed the bags that Hakkim and Aziz unloaded for us.  We had said goodbye and tipped them when boarding the bus since there is no parking or stalling at the airport.

We followed Kahlid to the entrance of terminal 2 and had our bags scanned as we entered.  We had to scan our bags on arrival at the exit to the parking lot so this was not a surprise to us.  We continued to the check in.  Elva and I changed lines more than once as each line seemed to have someone ahead of us with major ticketing problems.

I had asked Kahlid to help me communicate that I would like a window seat on the right side of the plane.  A window seat is always my preference but since the surgery I especially do not want to have my arm coming in contact with random strangers.  He remembered and spoke to the gentleman who nodded and assigned me a lovely seat on the left hand aisle!  I might as well draw a target on my shoulder!

We headed to the security check in where, after a short wait, my carry on was examined.  The officer asked me to open my bag.  I asked what it was that needed to be looked at.  As I started to remove things and recite silly things, like “Oh, is it the tablet?” as I held it up.  No. “Oh, did we need to remove our plastic bags of liquids?” and held it up. “Is it my sandwich?  Can we not take food on the plane?” clutching my little ham sandwich and croissant.  No.  “The jump rope?” holding up my physical therapy tool. No. He continued to fish around and cane up with one, then two one pound weights.  Yes, I had forgotten that they would need to be in the checked bag and had left them in the carry on so I could use them that morning and tomorrow in New York.  I am that mush of a rule follower, exercises every day!

Through his smirk he asked me what they were and why I had them.  I told him and said to just throw them away as I apologized.  “These are not allowed!”  He continued to lecture me as I continued to suggest he discard them.  Then he put them in my bag and said, “Don’t do that again!”

Next was passport control.  Elva zipped through one line and then I did.  We had sort of begun to hook up with Cindy because she was on her own.  So we waited for her to go through a different line.  We waited.  Then we asked each other if we should just leave her and go on to the gate.  Then we waited for her, and waited.  Never did find out what took so much longer.

The three of us then figured out how to find the gate and were not surprised that it was at the farthest end of the terminal, even though it was gate two.  Turns out there is no Gate Two so we sat near gate one.  After a while we went to find a snack or drink.  We are suckers like that, one person walked by with ice cream and that became our mission!

After another half hour or so I set out to find some water to fill my bottle.  I like to take water aboard so that it is handy before whatever service there might be begins.  No water fountains and I was warned off what water might come from the faucets.  I returned to the food court where our New York friends were having lunch.  Water and Diet Coke were the same price.  I used the last of my dirhams and a stray Euro to buy a bottle of Coke.  
I was saving it for the plane after I had just a sip.
An agent appeared at Gate One.  I thought maybe that and gate two shared a podium so I asked about the seat on my flight.  Was it a window, which with the designation “K” I thought it wasn’t.   One of the agents said they could make no changes as there were no empty seats. The other looked in the system and found one and told me what it was.  But didn’t write it on the ticket.

After sitting awhile longer, there was a repeat of what happened in New York on the way over.  Suddenly, everyone in the area jumped to their feet like as if Mother Superior had entered the room!  They scrambled toward Gate Three and clustered behind some quickly produced stanchions and ropes.  We also grabbed our stuff and headed that way.  Getting into the back of the line just as the final rope was placed, turned out to be a lucky thing.  They whole line turned around and we were just a few people behind the front of the line!  Four police officers rushed toward Gate One, to the side.  An impromptu security check was in place.
People in line slugged down their water and I noticed that the first people had their full, unopened bottles confiscated.  Without looking too hard, or being too obvious, I slid my bottle into the inside pocket of ‘suitcase jacket.’  I also put my sandwich in my pocket and my phone and camera.

The guards were through in rummaging through the bags and I figured I would again be asked about my weights.  I almost took them out and just threw them away.
When it was my turn they unzipped all the zippers on my bag, unzipped the tablet case, and rummaged around.  No word about the weights.  Then I realized there was a male and female officer doing pat downs.  The gate security must be standard operating procedure as there was a curtained booth off to the side that she waved me into.  After closing the curtain she was quite through.  However, she indicated to me to hold my jacket away from my body so my sandwich, and Coke made it onto the plane with me!

I waited for Elva and while doing so heard my name called.  I looked up to see one of the men of The Six signaling me about what was going on.  I nodded my head and indicated the checkpoint and officers doing the pat downs. 

Elva and I proceeded to Gate One, walked down the long descending ramp, and exited to the tarmac.  The plane was too big to use the gate bridge access.  We boarded a small bus and were driven to the part of the apron where the plane was waiting.  Lugging our bags up the steps we were greeted by pleasant flight attendants who asked where our seats were while looking at the ticket.  I told them mine had been changed at the gate and the man said then the attendant would have marked and signed the ticket.  I pleasantly replied that she hadn’t and was told go ahead and you can try.  I found my A seat which had me now seated only three rows into economy.  Elva had also been successful at changing her assignment to a window on the other side of the plane.

It took a little more than an hour to process all of the passengers through the extra security and drive them to the plane.  Our New York Six were the last to board.  They later said they just stayed in the food court when they saw what was going on and relaxed. 

What luck!  The center seat was empty and the gentleman on the aisle suggested we take full advantage of it.  We set personal items on the seat after takeoff and during the meal used the tray as an overflow location.  We got along well with minimal but enjoyable conversation.  Although we flew roundtrip to Casablanca, the return flight was scheduled to be two hours longer because of flying East to West.  We left a few minutes early and arrived a little early as well.  The dinner was unremarkable and not as good as on the way over.  The in seat screen worked and although I had planned to write I just watched movies and read.  I was able to finish A House in Fes and was glad to do so.  

Although most of the flight was in daylight we were high above the clouds.  I like looking at clouds and am always amazed at the different types and what they remind me of.  We flew over some that looked like cauliflower!  Tight little clumps of off white clustered in rising and falling lines like the roundness of a head of the vegetable.
I was glad that as we broke through the ceiling I was able to see a site that is always amazing.  NYC and the Lady Liberty!  She was lighted in the blue, white, and red of the French flag.  The photos did not turn out but the sight is in the best album of all – my mind’s eye and my brain!
Surprisingly the reentry was swifter than usual although we had been expecting a delay as passports were carefully reviewed after Friday’s attack.  We gathered our bags and quickly got through customs as we had nothing to declare.  We met up with Cindy again who was trying to catch a flight that night back to California.  I would have liked to be heading home as well but because of costs we were instead looking for a way to the Comfort Inn of Jamaica Plains.
Cindy asked for directions and left us, but not before we met up with our South American friends. Suddenly the nine of us raised an arm high in the air and shouted Columbia!  We laughed and hugged but those around us seemed to edge away.
We found the board with the phone to call the hotel for our ride and were given directions to the Plane Train, which we were to take to Jamaica Plains, and a specific waiting area.

Off we went, all but Cindy.  Not as easy to access as the underground train in Atlanta, we went up in the elevator, across a long bridge, down an escalator, out onto a platform and caught the next train.  Onboard a very nice young man asked us if we were going the right way.  I think he thought we should have been heading to Manhattan.  He was warning us about Jamaica Plains and how to move quickly and be safe.  We said we were just staying at a hotel and being collected by their van right at the station.  He seemed to relax a little and wished us luck.

We watched for our exit, took the escalator down to the parking level and found the pick-up point.  It was a very short time until the Fairfield / Comfort Inn driver arrived, jumped out, collected our bags, and we boarded the comfortable but full vehicle.  We were the first dropped off and the only ones checking in.  Our first floor room near the desk turned out to be noisy but it was comfortable and you know I was excited that it had a tub in the bathroom and a tea / coffee pot on the desk.

I had been having trouble turning my phone on and the kid at the desk let me take his cell phone and call TY-Mobile.  I had reset the settings but forgot to turn off the Wi-Fi Calling Only button.  Once that was done all was well. 

We checked in for our morning flight and saw it was on time at 8:15 a.m.  A few minutes of TV and a hot bath and sleep did not delay coming.  Our bodies were still on Morocco time!  We set the room alarm and both phones since we had an early flight and needed to leave on the 6:30 a.m. shuttle.

We did not need the alarms as it turned out and were up and dressed and going to the lounge for a quick breakfast by ten after six.  The driver was there and so we quick got coffee and joined the 6:15 empty bus.  It stopped at Fairfield and filled up.  Instead of having to take the Plane train that we had allowed time for, the driver dropped us right at the terminal.

We checked in okay, and under what seems to be the new airline plan of not having preassigned seats, I knew I would be given a seat and have to request the change at the gate.  We made our way to the assigned gate which was not the one our tickets showed.  We had two different gates named. Elva walked down to the most distant gate, which was the originally assigned one.  I followed her and then I found a cup of tea at a kiosk, thank you America!  I also made a quick stop at an ATM where, of course, my Visa bank card worked and I withdrew enough to pay back Elva for being my banker during the trip. 

When the gate agent arrived I pleaded the surgical issue and was assigned a very nice, up front, not first class, but extra comfort window seat.  I forgot to give Elva the money so worked my way back through the plane with the boarding passengers and passed the money to her.  When the doors closed, the seat next to me, on the aisle, was empty.  I asked the flight attendant who had already served us our first drink and snack, if my friend could move up to the seat.  She said no, I had paid for the Comfort Plus seating and that wouldn’t be fair.  I said I hadn’t paid for it but it was just assigned and she just smiled.  Moments later a deadheading flight attendant took her place next to me and went promptly to sleep.

I had a nice breakfast and enjoyed the flight.  Leaving New York I was, as always excited to see the iconic skyline and the Statue of Liberty again.



The flight seemed quick and soon the view changed to our own icons.  I love seeing Stone Mountain, it makes me feel at home and brings back so many happy memories.

The New Home of the Falcons - Mercedes-Benz Stadiumdoesn’t look much bigger than our once iconic Georgia Dome!  I hope it has more ladies rooms!

 Our flight landed early and Elva and I hugged goodbye as she gathered her bag and set out to the Marta platform and her home on the Decatur Square.  I called Christine who had followed the flight and was almost at the pick-up point already.  Christine is always so gracious when she takes me to and from the airport.  She has a cold or hot drink for me depending on the weather and listens politely to my rush of stories about what was the best part of the trip.  The twenty minute ride to her house is always pleasant. 

I transferred my luggage to my car after petting my Skeeter for a few minutes, and headed home.  I couldn’t take her with me since the next morning at 8:00 a.m. I was to begin a four day babysitting job.  That ended on Friday evening and on Saturday I hosted our Family Thanksgiving!  It was a crazy schedule to return to but all went well.  I do blame it for slowing me down in completely this blog series for your enjoyment and for my memory stabilization!

Let me close with a couple of old family recipes.  Why would I include them here – they feature dates!  Our dates here, let me say, no matter how good a quality I buy, nowhere as delicious as the ones we are enjoyed in Majestic Morocco! Enjoy!

This first recipe is for Poor Man’s Cake.  The original is in my mother’s personal book of saved recipes.  The cake is so called because it doesn't use real butter or eggs and no white sugar. It is from "the War years.”  That means World War II when rationing demanded that cooks and especially baker’s be very clever.  Maybe it was passed on from bakers of the Great Depression era. Then it would have used lard and I am not sure how that would enhance the flavor! We love this treat.

Poor Man’s Cake

1 c. brown sugar

½ c. margarine

2 c. chopped dates

1 c. boiling water

¼ t. salt

2 c. flour

1 t. baking soda

1 ½ t. ground cloves

¼ t. nutmeg

Pour boiling water over chopped dates, let sit 2 – 5 minutes.  Drain and reserve liquid.  Cream margarine and brown sugar.  Alternately add sifted dry ingredients and water from dates.  Add dates.  You may add chopped nuts if you would like.  I don’t usually. Bake in greased loaf pan.

350˚ for 1 hour.

Important note.  I do not bake the cake but place the pan in a little water in my slow cooker, which is conveniently oblong.  I turn it on high and steam the cake until a toothpick comes out clean.  It takes a little longer but is delicious and moist.  When I used to bake it in the oven, I added a pan of water on the second rack so that the cake gets a nice shiny top crust.

 

This recipe was my Dad’s favorite cookie.  It is a puffy, soft treat.  I like them for breakfast. 

Sour Cream Date Drops

¼ cup butter

¾ c. brown sugar

1 ½ t. vanilla

1 beaten egg

1 ¼ c. sifted flour

½ t. baking soda

¼ t. baking powder

¼ t. salt

½ t. cinnamon

¼ t. nutmeg

½ c. sour cream

1 1/3 c. chopped dates

Cream butter and sugar well with vanilla.  Add egg, beat well.

Sift together dry ingredients.  Add to creamed mixture alternately with sour cream.  Stir in dates.  Drop by teaspoon onto greased cookie sheet.  The cookies will spread and rise.

Bake at 400˚ for 10 mins.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Saturday, December 5, 2015

Saturday, November 14 ~ Rabat Remembered


This is our last full day in Morocco.  We have seen so much and yet there is so much more to explore!  Maybe next time.

This morning after a leisurely hotel breakfast, we set out to tour this vibrant capital city.  When we passed the Museum of Contemporary Art, Kahlid suggested that it might be a nice place to spend the free afternoon that we would be having.


The dense fog we awoke to was not yet dissipated by the time we reached the grounds of the Royal Palace.  I did like that there were a lot of twisty trees that seemed eerie in the mist.


The palace was heavily guarded by two of each of the military and police services.


But they seemed a little more casual than what we would see in the States or England.





There was a great deal of coming and going at this nine o’clock hour.  Men did not use Bab but a little door to the right.  Apparently these were routine visitors as no one was paid any attention to them.


It also caught my attention that the men carried nylon briefcases in this, the home of fine Moroccan leathers!
 Kahlid explained the Moroccan system of government that includes two houses of representatives and a King who is an absolute Monarch.  The congress agrees to laws which are subject to the King’s approval.  He doesn’t need to veto them or get in big discussions about what happens.  He either makes it a law or doesn’t.  The elected representatives are strictly advisory.

The Royal Palace grounds include a building for the wives and children.  Also a University which is attended by the royal offspring and selected students from around the world.  The chilly fog did not enhance the appearance of what are quite beautiful buildings and grounds.

We continued on our search of the history of Rabat.  Exiting the palace grounds through one more Bab, this one having only a low wall, we made our way across town to the Chellah Necropolis.

We turned onto the Mohammed VI main street.  Every city has the main streets of Mohammed V and Mohammed VI.  Much like our cities have a JFK highway or a Martin Luther King Road.  The difference is that VI is the current and relatively young King.  He has an attractive and happy family.  He met his wife when he was making a graduation speech and awarding the diplomas.  Salma Bennani caught his attention when he presented her engineering degree.  He invited her out and the rest, as they say, is history.  They married in 2001 and have two children.  Their 12 year old son is the Crown Prince, and the 7 year old daughter has the title of Lalla, which is lady.


 We went on to the Chellah Necropolis. 

 


 
Members of the Merinid royalty are buried here.  This mausoleum is the resting place of the wife of the first of the Merinid Caliph, Abou Yacoub Youssef.  She was buried here, inside the Chellah or fort and right outside of the Kasbah, in 1284. 


Family members are buried nearby and the servants are also buried here.  Their tombs are plainer.



You can see clearly how Kasbah exteriors are a series of walls.
 
 
Some rooms were smaller, some longer or wider, but all had ‘high ceilings’ judging by these archways!

 

The bathroom.

 


 
Storks have taken over the site, nesting on every possible open wall and tower.


 
They nested on the minarets, ruin walls, and in the trees.  It is rare to see one in flight however.

Poor Elva!   She was asked to pose so many times.  I like to think it gives perspective to the picture as far as height and depth!

We continued on our way.
Just as every city has a specific color for taxis, they also have identifiable boats.  It is a matter of great pride for fishermen to brag on their home ports.  Here the boats are blue, like in Essouria but have the added colors of stripes.


 
Across the river is the sister city of Sale’ Colonia. Once a Roman outpost the city has become a suburb easily reached by the tram that crosses the bridge.  Trams run every few minutes during working and commute hours.

As the walls appear before us we know this can only be the Oudaia Kasbah.  The gate, Bab Oudaia, is the entrance through an Almohad wall.  There was here an original Signal Station built in the 18th century as the Kasbah clings cliff side at the estuary.  Because of the ongoing spelling issue in Morocco, this is also known as the Kasbah Udayas.  I think the nomenclature problems come because of the fact of both Spanish rule and the French protectorate in past centuries.  More importantly it is due errors in the translation from Arabic over the years of the varying dynasties.


Once inside we were reminded instantly of Santorini, the Greek isle.  The blue and white is so iconic for that place that to see it replicated here quickly identifies this city’s connection with the sea.


I love to take pictures of doors and windows.  Every door here has the Hand of Fatima on it and other symbols of good luck, or to ward off evil. This first one was an exception, which indicates the owners are Christian.  Many French ex-pats live in Morocco and are welcomed with open arms.  Some are noted to expect French style living when they have chosen the romantic setting of a medina and do not hesitate to expect full and immediate clearance for their cars.  As you know, most of the medina streets can barely accommodate foot traffic, so I am sure this can be a real problem.

 
 
 
 

Love this elderly man chauffing. Not much to see here but passing tourists.  He seemed content.


Did you notice that even his walker is that lovely blue?

                                                     
It just seemed sweet and peaceful here.

From within these pleasant surroundings we reached the entrance to the gardens of the Musee des Oudaia, which is in a small 17th century palace.  Built by Moulay Ismail it has undergone multiple renovations under the protectorate and as early as 1915 became a museum.  While Kahlil regaled us with more history, my mind, now a little distracted due to the setting in of a serious cold that has robbed both Elva and I of sleep, wandered.  So did I.  I found the garden an interesting and refreshing break.





 

When we left we drove along the seaside.

We continued on to the Hassan Tower, which is under renovation, and the Mausoleum of Mohammed V.  It is he who is credited with achieving independence for Morocco. Built under supervision of the Vietnamese architect, Vo Toan, it took 400 craftsmen to complete the Italian, white marble building perched on a platform nearly two stories high.  I made a note of the architect since my next trip is to Viet Nam and I expect to see more of his work, perhaps.

At first glance the edifice may remind you of the Taj Mahal.  The coloring, symmetry, and intricate carving give that impression.  But, of course, the size, scale, and setting are nowhere nearly as impressive.

What I noticed first as we pulled up to park, was that we had circled back toward the hotel.  The vendors here were the same ones that accosted us when leaving this morning.  They are so smart and surely know the tour routes in every location.  They didn’t stop us on the way in, they knew we would return with a little more time to look at their wares.
 
 
The next thing was equally of interest to me.  This site, like all of the important sites of Morocco has a wall. 


The pillars of the old mosque stand between the tomb and the Hassan tower.
The tower is the unfinished minaret of the Hassan Mosque.  The mosque, 600 feet by 456 feet, was out of proportion to the population of Rabat at the time it was built more than 800 years ago but is a fitting symbol of the current status as capital of Morocco. The incomplete tower is 52 feet wide and reached only 144 feet high before work on it was stopped.  Had it reached its completion height it would have been 262 feet high.  Still its square bulk seems massive.


The mausoleum itself features stained glass windows, a marble frieze with calligraphy of a hymn of praise, polychrome zeliij, and horseshoe – arched doorways on all four sides with slender Carrara columns.  Pierced and engraved brass candelabra highlight the stairways.  Each doorway has a ceremonial guard.  I was taking pictures all around but one guard saw I had snapped him when he was not at his post, and asked me to delete the photo.  I showed him the picture as I deleted it but I had others.


Caught on camera off to the side above, the guard then happily posed in the photo below. They are, after all, ceremonial and really there to provide a touristy moment.
 


 
The entrance to the building brings you to a catwalk balcony above the sarcophagus.



The ceiling is gilded mahogany with stained glass set in the dome.

 
As we have seen everywhere, one flag is never enough.  These Moroccan flags are also embellished with embroidered symbols of the dynasty.  The intricate zeliij is always fascinating.

At the Taj Mahal, the King' sarcophagus is to one side of the Queen's thereby breaking the symmetry. Here, the tomb of Mohammed V’s wife is to one side of his, in a similar manner.
 
An Imam prays quietly at all times.

It is a beautiful and fitting tribute to a man of power and peace.

We left the imposing calm and returned to our bus and the stalwart vendors  that were waiting for us.

A funny thing happened when most of us were on the bus and waiting for some who were using the restroom.  On the way back to the bus they stopped with the two vendors who had stalked us from the hotel.  They needed to buy a few more belts and scarves and necklaces.  This snowballed into cries from the back of the bus to have them wait.  Ladies hurriedly exited the bus, over Kahlid's mild protest, because they also discovered that they did not have quite enough to take home. Leather belts were $3 and beautifully embossed or had intricate hole punching. Finally, Kahlid gathered the straying flock and we reentered the Saturday chaos of traffic and “souking”.
 



Back at the hotel we checked the posted daily schedule to confirm the time for our Farewell Dinner.  

 
Since Elva and I had repacked yesterday, we decided to enjoy our free afternoon with a leisurely stroll through the nearby streets. We knew we would be spending much of tomorrow sitting down. Our first stop was at an ATM so that Elva could rescue me with additional dirhams to use for tips as I was out of American money to exchange at the hotel desk.  When that was all organized we went a few blocks to the traffic circle and tram stop where we found a Christian Church.


Kahlid had suggested this route as he thought there was a small park and a bench there to spend some time.  There really wasn’t.  But it was more peaceful than joining the ladies who hired a private guide to take them back to souks.  They are definitely not places that you can wander on your own.  It isn’t that they are not safe but you might never been seen again if you get turned around in the maze of alleyways and dead ends. The guide could also lead them to find specific things they still ‘needed.’
 
 The church was built in 1921 and was very simple with a try to be cathedralesque.

 
Pretty stairs led to the choir loft.

 
 

 


We met in the hotel dining room and were seated with Judy and Shelia.  Toasts to each other, Kahlid, the journey, and future travels began the evening.

I have never tried ceviche but this beef was really quite delicious.
Elva got special attention from one of our favorite waiters!
Elva got some special attention served along with her squash soup!


After our dinner it was time for the “family photo.” Such a nice, and diverse group of people with whom to travel.  We were from Columbia, California, South Carolina, New York and, of course, Atlanta and Marrakesh!


We returned to the fourth floor and our comfortable beds.  The morning would have an early start.