Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Palma de Mallorca



Palma de Mallorca (Majorca)

I booked all of our tours through fellow travelers in the Cruise Critic chat room on line.  This internet site lets travelers connect before sailing for various reasons; sharing ship and travel tips, lining up partners for games or classes, sharing tour expenses.  It is a huge savings to not use the ship for tour planning but has a risk – you miss the ship you are SOL!

Our first stop was in Palma, the capital of the Balearic Island of Majorca.  We joined Dave and Patti who arranged an all day tour by mini-van.  It got off to a bad start when we could not find the tour guide.  Top Day Tours did not send Dave clear instructions on the meeting spot. It was almost an hour after the meeting time that we finally set out along the amazing water front.

What was particularly fascinating to me was the simply countless number of yachts and sailboats that filled mile after mile of harbor.  They never did end by the time we turned inland to climb to a viewing point high above the city at the castle.  The guide was not great at giving information and seemed a little unsure of what we were supposed to see and do.  For example she did not tell us a meeting time and place at each stop.  Not good with a group of 18 people with about 25 cameras between them!

The city below was pretty but unremarkable except for its size.  I don’t think any of us expected there to be a permanent population of about 450,000 citizens.

We then took a drive across country to the hill town of Valdemosa.  Along the way we passed olive and also almond groves.  I did not know that carob is also a grove tree that is evergreen along with the silver green olive trees.  The almonds had been harvested and were beginning to lose their leaves.  In season there are 450 varieties of orchids in bloom but not the island was just very green with an occasional bougainvillea or plumbago in bloom.

We had a brief walking tour of Valdemosa.  The most notable thing is that Chopin spent some time here with his lover Georges Sand. Since they were poor they lived in a cell in the old monastery that the monks had turned into apartments. The stone facades were on terraces behind matching stone walls and overlooked hills of groves with a distant view of the sea.

We had about two hours for wandering, shopping, and lunch.  Elva and I ate at Cappuccino.  This restaurant was written up in a German article but not for what you might think.  It was an interior design magazine and the bathroom was featured!  Of course I had to check it out and it did have a nice ceiling of blue and a trough sink of marble.  Clever designation signs were on the doors.  A shepherd for the men’s room and shepherdess on the ladies.  The pair was pictured seated on donkeys to indicate the accessible facilities.  Worthy of a feature article, well I guess I am no judge.
The lunch was very good and we enjoyed the people watching from beneath our umbrella.  We still had time so strolled down to view a church and then back up to ‘window-shop’ in the doorways of the ancient buildings on our way back to the parking area to meet the group.

At one point during the tour back in the city I broke the rules and paid the price.  I stood up to step across the aisle to take a picture.  Most everyone was seated alone since the bus was bigger than the group so it was easy to do.  Except my toe caught the emergency lighting strip and I pitched awkwardly forward stepping down the aisle step, banging the armrest with my left hip, the hard plastic back of a seat handle with my right shoulder and slamming my nose quite crunchingly into the seat handle of the window seat in front of Elva.  If I could add pictures here, I would show you the stars I saw!  Fortunately my nose did not bleed and I do not have a black eye!  But my nose still feels swollen and is red. Lesson learned.

Since a couple of days ago at Caduques Elva fell when we stood up to change tables at lunch and move out of the sun I guess we are officially a mess!  That story was that the restaurant was so crowded and our time so limited that we could not wait longer for a table so took one not protected by an umbrella.  When the shaded table became available we stood up to move two steps across the aisle.  Elva lost her balance when instead of terra firma her foot landed on the curved edge of the broad cement base of the umbrella.  I tried to grab her. People around sprang up to try and catch her but she landed firmly on her seat and her head kept going toward the pavement.  She narrowly missed the corner of the next table and somehow miraculously her head landed on the largest, softest, most overstuffed ladies purse I have ever seen!  She looked as though she had just chosen to lie down comfortably.  How lucky we both were!

Our tour in Palma was to go to the Cathedral where we could pay 6 Euros extra to visit inside or we could choose to walk along the sea front and visit the old quarter.  Just as we arrived the skies opened and most of the people on the bus voted to go back to the ship.  I figured the shower would be fleeting.  My Mom always said if it rained suddenly and hard that it did not last long.  But the guide made the mistake of offering options.  So we went back to the ship and missed what might have been a very good part of the day.
Soon it was time to sail and bid sunny Palma farewell.  The tour was disappointing but the day was a way to meet new friends and to see some beautiful places.

At dinner in the Silhouette Dining Room we asked for a shared table.  We were seated when surprisingly the Marie that we met at dinner in the Café last night was brought to sit with us.  Her friend had abandoned her.  So there were three of us and a little bit of the continuation of last night’s conversation continued.  Marie seemed up with Wilmer, our waiter, but Elva and I thought service was good and I know my sirloin steak was like butter and delicious!

Rondell, the comedian, was the entertainer so we cut dessert short because we did not want to be late for the show.  He did forty five hysterical minutes and we all laughed right out loud as he made fun of the 27 year old girl who had no job and a good education and still lived with Mom and Dad who were treating her to the cruise.  The young lady took it gracefully.  He also gave many examples to the newly-weds tips from the couple married fifty four years!  And he made fun of us all, cruisers and old people.  And even though some of the topics were old, like how much food we eat on the ship, his take on it was new and fresh. 

Our first port day was a mixed bag.  Delightful to be somewhere you have only ever heard about but a little tinged by poor guide performance.

Spanish Whirlwind Comes to An End!


Today we slept until we woke up.  For the first time no alarm was needed as we are heading to the ship and not doing that until close to noon.  We did keep moving though because somehow in my travels, time contracts.  What sounds like a long time is really just a fleeting opportunity.

Breakfast was delicious and always such a nice variety.  We then set out to the Supermercato to buy the things I for sure needed for the rest of the trip but had foolishly left in the airport in Madrid. There was one in the next block.  I bought four 16 ounce bottles of Coke Light.  Also deodorant, toothpaste, and a hand lotion.  Elva bought a wine bottle opener.  We walked back to our corner because sun screen is sold only in Farmacias.   A very small tube cost 14.95 Euros or about $21.  I will never be so thoughtless or careless again in an airport.  Lesson learned and compared to leaving electronics behind, the lesson was cheap!  However, in my defense I will say that if I could trust that my bags would reach my destination and in good condition, I would pack all that important stuff and not have to deal with it in security.  This time my checked bag was damaged and, although still useable, I will need to see about having the lifetime guarantee activated!

We returned to the hotel and had another round of tea and coffee and a roll before gathering our belongings, setting our bags in the hall by 10:30 am and leaving for the bus.  Elva went down to the lobby first and when I got there she was upset, not a happy camper.  The handles of the box holding her wine bottles broke!  Wine all over the floor by the check in desk.  Wasted money and no time to replace it for the trip. 

We boarded the bus and because we were on the far side of Placa Catalunya from the port, the ride took about 30 minutes or so. The transfer was provided as part of our package so we just took our carry on, for me my small rolly-bag and for Elva, a back pack, and began the check in process.  We were directed to a short line because we had our signed Express Check In papers and passports in hand and because I am Select Level on Celebrity Cruise Line.

It only took about ten minutes from the curb to clearance.  And then the strangest thing…a Duty Free Shop!  We were not leaving the country but I guess because the final destination is outside of Spain we were eligible for Duty Free. I convinced Elva to replace her wine.  Even with having to buy double the amount it is cheaper than buying on the ship if you care to have a glass.  I even bought a bottle of Rose!

Despite our stop to shop, we were in our cabin in less than a half of an hour from the time we arrived at the port!  Remarkable.

Elva had forgotten that we had a balcony ordered and so was pleasantly surprised.  We were both surprised and happy with the size and configuration of the cabin.  The bathroom has a nice, high-lipped and rounded shower.  A broad counter with lots of nooks and crannies and several narrow shelves for toiletries – I won’t need much space this trip.

The cabin itself has a couch that is long enough to be a third bed.  There is an oval coffee table high enough to use for eating or writing.  The rounded cornered bed was separated to a two twins. The dresser has two drawers apiece for us.  A cabinet with a safe and mini-fridge drops down to become a desk/vanity with three electrical outlets and mirror above.  The chair is comfortable.  Sliding glass doors take up most of one wall leading to the balcony which is wide enough for two chairs and a table that would be good for a room service lunch.  We were happy to discover that over the bed we each have an additional storage space since there are not really enough drawers for such a long trip.  The double closet has enough wooded hangers, the kind with clips for pants, but we have mostly casual clothes which do well folded.  Each bed also has an easy to reach reading lamp and the beds and couch face the 32” flat screen T.V.  All the comforts of home and none of the chores!
We had lunch in the tastefully decorated (no pun intended) Oceanview Café. . . the Lido equivalent.  I found us a table by the aft rail and the sea air and soft breeze made the warm sun feel even better.  We know we are lucky people!

At 4:00 we joined dutifully into the lifeboat drill from our comfortable seats in the Asian fusion restaurant where everything was illustrated in a Power Point demonstration. We then took a few minutes to finish unpacking so that the vacation could be officially begun and headed to the Sky Lounge for the first party of the voyage.  

The Cruise Critic Welcome Aboard Meet and Mingle.  It is unusual to have it immediately but we do not have a sea day until after four port days.  On Cruise Critic so many tours are organized that it is a good idea to give group leaders a chance to remind people of meeting times and places or any changes.  I have a group of 89 in Lanzarote so was glad to have a chance to remind them to find me at the gangway and that I would be wearing bright green.  Cross your fingers that it works!
We have “Select Dining” so we tried to make reservations but had no luck so just went ahead and went to dinner.  We ate in the Café and I had roast leg of lamb that was delicious.  If the food upstairs is that good the dining room should be amazing.  We met a couple of ladies who were new to cruising and were trying to pick our brains and we obliged.

Before we knew it, it was time for the opening night show.  The cruise director is Paul from the USA.  He has a calm and professional attitude and we are definitely not on Carnival if the sample entertainment is a true taste of what is to come.  No Bubble Girl here!  Rondell, the black comedian, just killed and we can’t wait for his performance tomorrow night.  There was a young man who could balance inside of a spinning hoop/wheel thing and we heard that there will be a Cirque type show.  The singers and dancers sound really good and although they are easy to hear the music was not too loud.

Yes, I think this will be a good cruise!


On to Barcelona ...



The time had come on Saturday morning to leave magical Madrid and fly to barmy Barcelona.  I choose that word carefully, Barcelona has a ‘barmy’ aesthetic.  It is the home of Gaudi from whom I am pretty sure we derive the word ‘gaudy.’  Pablo Picasso was at home here as was Salvador Dali.  Not only is there surreal art work everywhere, the buildings reflect the artists culture, and the people themselves have a carefree, artistic sense about them.

Before I tell you more let me back track to last night. We reorganized our bags and always we the thought that they might not arrive safely tour destination.  In the morning we were up early and out the door to the airport.  And here the day became a little off.  Our gate was on the boards as only “J”.  We clustered about staring at the changing times and gates – but ours never did.  It was now less than an hour to the flight.  No one from the agency was there to offer guidance.

We were allowed to make purchases at the Duty Free Shop even though we were not leaving the country.  Elva bought two bottles of wine that were on offer.  They sales lady put them in the bottle carrier box and we joined the others.

They had been around before security and even got us a private check in and security line.  While waiting, one of our group called over, “Did someone leave and IKEA bag at security.”  We all said no.  Then a gentleman came and led the group to somewhere but didn’t tell us.  I did not go along as Elva had stepped away and would have no idea where we had gone.

When Elva returned we could not find anyone we recognized and so went to an Iberia Air gate and were told that the flight number was not in the system but we could check their desk.  I started to tell the lady there that we were told the flight wasn’t in the system and without even glancing up she said “J56.”  Very weird.  But we did make our way all the way back through the terminal and found our new friends.
The flight was short and fine.  No service, not even a cold drink.  But our bonus prize of the day was that there was a New York gentleman seated on the aisle.  Elva had the window and I had the middle.  I thanked him for making it easy to get in and started a little polite pre-flight chat.  Since almost everyone on the flight was in our group it turned out that he was as well.

Pete lives in Myrtle Beach and had been on the Equinox four previous times.  It is his favorite.  He told us all about the best places to eat and the fun and nice things about the ship.  The hour and fifteen minutes went fast.  We laughed so much and enjoyed each other’s company so  much that before we had gotten to the hotel later in the morning, Pete and his wife Carol were at the top of our ‘get to know’ list.
There was more confusion at baggage since the company reps were at the carousel and not near the entry, but eventually we found them and were taken to the quite sleek and new H10 Arts hotel.  There was a champagne welcome drink waiting for us.  We enjoyed it on the quiet, walled patio while staff processed our passports and checked us in. Our rooms were ready as by then and we went up to a street view with an iron rack over the French door opening so we had a sort of French balcony but couldn’t enjoy a view.  While waiting for our bags I began to put away things from my carry on.  We continued to wait for our other bags and I finally went to the lobby and found one and asked about Elva’s.

It was about 3:00 in the afternoon when the light bulb went on!  Remember that IKEA bag? It was mine.  At security the man had taken the infamous BAGGIE from me and so I totally blanked when she said BAG.  I was thinking like a shopping bag, not the baggie with all my liquids – sun lotion, makeup, toothpaste, two new lipsticks, new mascara, and new nail polish and on and on! You would think I had never traveled before!  So now a shopping trip was added into the agenda!
Elva and I had decided to take a trial run walk to the place where we were to meet our early Sunday morning excursion.  We wanted to be sure we knew the way and would not be lost and knew how long it would take.  We had walked down Catalunya to the Palau de Musica and the Viator tour offices were across the way from the entrance. Catalunya is a pedestrian way and sidewalk cafes were filled with families and young lovers, and laughing friends.  Such a wonderful, peaceful, and joyous way to spend a warm October evening.

When we got to the office it was open and we confirmed the details of our excursion and started back.  We ended up on what became a scenic route but soon found ourselves at the corner café by our hotel. The delightful stroll and not so relaxing way back made us ready for dinner and our warm beds.  Elva ordered quiche and a salad and I had a hot ham and cheese sandwich and salad.  The waiter was so delightful and we joked and laughed and teased.

Pretty soon Carol and Pete came by and joined us.  What was going to be an evening in our room so I could catch up with you, soon became a warm memory of happy chatter and new friends that I think will be ours for a long time to come! It turned out that they were going to the same office in the morning so we made plans to share a cab. When we got upstairs I showered and went to bed and read.  6:30 am was going to come early.

And it did.

We had a 7:00 am breakfast at which was delicious and had a good variety of foods to suit the breakfast needs of their international guests.  We then took the cab and quickly were joining our tours.  They went to Monserrat and Cava while we went to Figures, Caduques (pronounced like the first part of ‘catechism.’ The town is pronounced Cat – a – ches.)  Then we went on to Port LLigat.
During the two hour minivan ride the guide told the eighteen of us a great deal about Cataluña and the Catalan people.  Also about the rise of surrealism and the various artists and hangers on that made that community so interesting and creative.  When we arrived in Figures I was surprised that it was a pretty big little city.  Here we visited the Dali museum.  Built into the city wall, the old theater became the egomaniac’s salute to himself.  It came into being because the mayor asked the famous artist, who was living there, to help restore and refurbish the building but Dali responded that he would do that if it could be a museum about him!  Didn’t the mayor think their most important person deserved his own monument?

The pink walls topped with eggs and golden Oscar-like statutes also post ceramic poop!  Within the museum we could see the range of his genius.  The naked lady portrait that in a photo appears to be a bust of Lincoln is just the beginning.  I am beginning to develop an appreciation for art and artists.
At Caduques we had more than an hour at the whitewashed, seaside village.  And that was just enough time, barely, to eat lunch under an umbrella while little boys fished nearby.  This was the countryside, summer home of the Dali family.  We heard many stories of the Dali family, in particular of how the father influenced young Salvador . . . and not for the good.

Our last stop was in the little fishing village of Port LLigat.  Here the home of Dali and his wife, Galla, started as one little fisherman’s home and was added to over and over as cottages became available.  The structure of the white stuccoed cottage is on so many levels that it is as though each room is a home of its own. Galla, who is the model for so many of his works, was the mastermind of the business of Salvador Dali.  Sort of a marketing manager.  And both of them were very interested in the money.

Our guide was great and told us so many wonderful stories that I suggest you look up and read a little of the private life of Dali.  And, just a note, I always kid about his work to say, ‘There must have been some heavy drugs involved.’  Ironically – no.  Salvador Dali never took and illegal drugs, never smoked, and was only a social drinker who would have a ‘small glass of wine or champagne’ at an event like an opening of one of his shows at a gallery.  And then, he would have only one and perhaps not even finish it.

Our day ended with a drive back to the city in Sunday evening return from the beach traffic.  It took more than an hour longer than planned and so we missed our meeting up with Carol and Pete.  We didn’t even eat dinner but went straight to bed!

Barcelona was about 36 hours of focus on the arts.