Friday, November 13 ~ The Road to Rabat

Reluctantly we left Fez about nine a.m. after a quiet breakfast with friends in the hotel dining room.  Yet again, a crazy, long, sense assaulting day we were a little happy to be on the road again.  Before the trip, while studying the itinerary, I knew we would have a lot of bus time.  I like the bus tours because you see so many interesting things that you would otherwise miss if you just flew into the cities or zoomed by on trains.  You also have time and quiet moments to bond with your fellow travelers.  Soon you know who will always be a few minutes late, or which couples are beginning to feel a little stress from so much togetherness.  Elva and I both travel well.  Since our bus was hardly full we would both take window seats, near enough to each other to share comments and snacks, but far enough apart to catch a nap or read the guidebook.

We started off with a quick look at the morning paper.  Kahlid had explained to us the differences between our calendar, the Gregorian calendar, and the Muslim, and Berber, and Jewish dating systems.  The newspaper gives all those dates in the “issue line” every day.

 

Today was full of surprises as we headed through the gentle hills dotted with fields and even lakes, to the current capital of Morocco.  The main source of fresh water here comes from the melting snows of the High Atlas and even Mid Atlas Mountains.  This lake is a reservoir created by the Ait Ouarda Dam north of Fez.

Our first stop was in Volubilis.  Why I should have been surprised to visit here confounds me.  After all, I knew the Romans had been in Africa, in Morocco, and I surely know that everywhere they went they left the place in ruins!  (Sorry, couldn’t resist!)

We met our local guide who gave us a detailed rundown on the history of the Roman Empire in Morocco.  The town was thriving from the 3^rd Century BC to AD 40.  Inn 45 AD Claudius raised its status to a “free town” becoming one of the most important cities in Mauretania Tingitana which comprised the northwestern Africa.  Particularly what would now be the northern portion of Morocco.  Ironically another leftover from those days are the Spanish cities of Ceuta and Melilla.  These cities are enclaves on the Mediterranean coast.  Residents require their passports to commute to work as the cities are wholly under Spanish rule.

 

 

 

 

The town in its heyday was very well planned and with fine Roman architecture.

The size and proportions of the buildings are classic and one really needs an appreciation of the skill and determination of the ancient builders.  Having seen ruins in Italy, Greece, Spain, France, Turkey and so many places I still always marvel at their existence after so many centuries and so much invasion of our “modern world.”

 

The capital is identified by the remaining foundations and the placement of a sacrificial altar at the base of its steps.   The bricks are thanks to a recognition by the French that, rather than duplicate with artificial means the pillars and stone work, they would reconstruct with obvious additions what would have been there.

The Basilica was in excellent condition when the excavations began here.  It and the Triumphal Arch were the sure indications that the historical site had been found. 

Stork nests crown most every sky reaching pillar and chimney in Morocco.

 

 

 

A view of the still standing Tangier Gate - this road led from the city to Tangier and on to Spain. 

The wealthy lived in beautifully decorated homes that are now identifiable by the remaining mosaics.  Remember that these works of art are 2000 or more years old and suffered beneath undisturbed layers of time!

 



This homes are identified now by the remaining mosaics.  Below is the House of the Labours of Hercules.  It depicts the 12 trials of his strength and goodness.

A “bestiary” was kept for entertainment.

There were remnants of the under floor heating system.  These large tunnels managed the warm water that heated floors, filled the troughs for the toilets, and also filled pools and fountains.

The fertile fields nearby made this metropolis famous for its granary and olive oil production.  The olive press was near the House of Orpheus.  After being crushed between the stones the pulp was poured into baskets with planks of wood on which a beam exerted constant pressure to extrude the oils.  Oil flowed into attached tanks and when water was added the superior oil floated .  It could then be skimmed off and stored in earthen vats and then ‘bottled’.

 

The main shopping street separated the poor people from the wealthy.  Evidence shows that store owners lived at the back of the workshop much as they do today.  Shopkeepers ranked higher than the servants and slaves, or the ordinary poor but lower than the Romans themselves.  Thus it is logical that the main street is the dividing line between the quarters.

 

We always enjoyed chatting with our guide and helpers to find out more about their lives.  Here Connie was spending a few minutes with Hakkim while everyone regrouped to move on.

Our next stop was in Meknes, which like Fes and Casablanca and Marrakesh, is a former capital of Morocco.  Turns out that until modern times, the capital was wherever the current king wanted to live.  It was in 1672 that the Moulay Ismail chose Meknes to became the Imperial City.  The ambitiousness of the building program that followed caused the thievery of the ruins of Volubilis and the Palais in Marrakesh.

Moulay Ismail is most famous though, not for his building and the bringing of Meknes to be a world power, but for his manhood.   He is known to have had 4 wives and 550 concubines but there is a discrepancy in how many children he may have fathered.  The Guinness Book of World Records says that they can verify 888 children.  But for this first ruler of the still ruling Alaouite dynasty, there are records that indicate he may have had 1,174 call him Dad!

He was also known to take great delight in displaying the heads of his enemies, either political or physical threats.  In Fez alone he skewered between 400 and 1,000 to establish his claim to the Sultancy.  In the 55 years of his power killed over 30,000 off the battlefield.

With the reign of this powerful, not necessarily ruthless leader when considered during his time frame, the independence of Morocco was assured. 

Meknes awaited us just over the hills, past the olive groves and in beautiful warm sunlight.

 

We stopped to view the renowned Bab Mansour el-Aleuj is the Gate of the Victorious Renegade.  The gate was started by Moulay Ismail when he first chose Meknes as his city but not finished until the reign of his son, Moulay Abdallah almost 100 years later.   Just for perspective, the wall is 52 feet high.  That is five stories tall. And the main arch is 26 feet wide, allowing for impressive military parades.  The towers are loggias which now are often used for art or museum displays. 

The history of Meknes is intricate and might be of ongoing interest if you want to learn how Morocco evolved.  But as a tourist on a mission to reach Rabat we only had time for a little touring before lunch.

Inside the gate was this beautiful reflecting pond that is in proportion to the palace behind it.

The University of Moulay Ismail.  What else would it be called?

 

The elegant Bab el- Makhzen leads to the Royal Kasbah.

 

Delicate stucco carving and zellij belie the massive importance of the entry doors.  As is often found within doors across Europe and Africa, there is a smaller door.  This allows the gate keeper to be sure who is entering before swinging wide the main gates to allow the entry of horses and carts or the entourages of foreign dignitaries.

We spent a short time touring past the palace walls, no pictures allowed, and past government buildings, again no photos permitted.  The city was pretty but not remarkable to us by this time in the trip.

We stopped for a leisurely lunch at the same kind of restaurant we ate in on the day to Marrakesh and it was just as delicious and again we ate on the covered patio.  Elva and I were glad that we decided to share a pizza since it satisfied both of us and we left with some to go.

A funny thing happened while we were upstairs to use the ladies room.  The door was locked.  We waited while the men came and went from the men’s room.  After a time of jiggling the door handle with no response such as, ‘just a minute’ or “I’m in here”, I left the line and found a waitress to tell her the door was locked.  She knocked repeatedly with no answer so I thought she went to get a key.  But she returned with a table knife to try the lock.  That didn’t work.  The waitress went downstairs to get a key and returned.  Just as she put the key in the lock and turned it, a woman came out drying her hands.  This event took at least ten minutes.  We were so surprised.

In the meantime, some of the ladies had begun to use the men’s room.  No shock there.  I think we have all done that at one time or another, if no men were using it.  I said I would watch the door as I was at the end of the line. When Donna exited I smiled and held out my hand.  She fished in her purse and placed a shiny U.S. dime in my hand and said, “Thank you!”  We all laughed and returned to Khalid’s care.  He was getting nervous at how long this break was taking.

Maybe the lady was smoking?  Surely not!

We passed through groves of olives, saw locals walking across the farm lands to what seems like nowhere, and some small villages.  We passed some Country Souks where the farmers come to make deals for whatever they grow or need.  No women are ever seen at these.  Wagons or crate stalls are set up but by this time of day, most of the business was done and the men were chuffing.

I actually watched a movie on my own.  I had downloaded I Want to Live before I left home.

 

The Afriquia where we stopped before entering the city of Rabat was in quite a nice, large plaza.  There was a bank, banquet hall, a restaurant, games, a small amusement park, a water park, and a furniture discount store.

We passed a lot of pretty parks playgrounds that seemed fitting for a busy city of one million people.

The architecture of this ocean side town was reminiscent of early Florida or California.

 

Since this is a center of government and of commerce the signage is user friendly.  In smaller towns some directions are only in Arabic despite French being the official language.

 

We passed the Medina where Friday night seems to be even more intense judging by the number of unlicensed street vendors outside the walls and the people rushing by.  They used the islands in the street to avoid the sidewalk congestion.

 

 

 

Although it is 'rush hour', still the men chuff.  Note how, even in a  modern city,  there are no women here and all the chairs face the street.  This was a small place but I am sure it would soon fill up.

We reached our destination and checked in at the nicely quiet LeDiwan Rabat hotel.  It was modern and only one short block from the tram that connects the city to the suburbs across the river.

 

The side street view is a bit different.

Our room was ready and was quite nice.  Lovely bathroom with a tub.  That is always great for me!  The glass door opened to a Juliet Balcony overlooking a not too busy intersection.  To the right we could see the tram stop.

 

 

We looked around for a while and were glad to settle in for the final days of our trip.  We took the opportunity to repack for the trip home.  Yea!  Everything fit.  We ate our cold  pizza, still delicious while we also watched, in horror, with the rest of the world the unfolding of the tragedy in Paris.  Elva and I have both, of course, been to Paris and love it.  What’s not to love about the City of Light?  Elva reminded me that we had hoped to take our granddaughters there together this past summer.  May God give us peace, and soon.  No one should have to live in fear and hate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thursday, November 12 ~ Fantastical Fez

This was a very busy day and we needed an early start.  Hakkim drove us to a main gate of the Fes el-Bali, the Medina.  Kahlid dresses in traditional djellaba when we go into medinas or souks.  For him it is not only comfortable but identifies him to the locals as being one of them.  It makes it easier for all of us to speak to the shop owners and to bargain.  Once again as we maneuvered past craftsmen, shop owners, carts of vegetables, donkeys, and school boys racing on bicycles we were followed by vendors selling everything.  Yes, everything.   

 

We particularly are here to visit the famed tanneries.  Unfortunately, UNESCO has provided the money for their restoration so they are closed during our visit.  Even so, the deeper we went into the souks the stronger the smell.

Along the way we sampled scraped artichoke stems which were being sold by this woman in this doorway.

And we tried earthberries. A very round, very seeded red fruit but the inside is distinctly apricot in flavor and the texture of baby food.  I liked them.

It seemed that during the whole stay we kept walking down, down, down more and more steps.  The stairs are stone and can be very slippery.  Vegetable scraps, papers, and dampness can make them treacherous as well as the “non-code” variances in height and width, and of course, the lack of railings anywhere.  What was not on the cobbles were animal droppings.  The donkeys and occasional horses are diapered and there are few dogs.  So that is not a problem.  But you could trip over one of the hundreds of feral cats that wait for scraps to fall or sun themselves in the rare ray that relieves the darkness of the turning alleyways and lanes.

I noticed that elderly men and women are well attended by the younger generation, like this blind man whose tap-tapping cane alerted us to step aside, while his son carried his daily shopping for him as he guided him through the miles of corridors.  The crippled woman was making her way on her own with a half loaf of bread but her daughter walked beside her.

When questioned about the empty water bottles, Kahlid pointed out that we were next to the Al Andaluse Mosque, for which this quarter was named.  This door led to a public ablutions place that would open with the call to prayer.  The attendant would bring water but kept the bottles there in case there was a different person doing it the next time.  Life here is kept very simple. Small wants and needs are happily answered and everyone seems content with their lot in life. 

When there is a wide load the cry of Balek, Balek is promptly met by making yourself as slim as possible!

A street corner…..but most buildings have no numbers or names, and the alleys are not labeled so I am not sure how useful the occasional number is.

  Thanks to UNESCO running water was added to the whole World Heritage Site --- the whole Medina.  To do so, walls were dug out and never sealed over.  Public fountains were shut down, except for a couple of touristy ones, so that people would be forced to use the new-fangled invention of running water, and therefore pay for it. But the water is not usually for drinking and bottled water is a big seller.

We came to a maker of brass jewelry, small trays, ash trays, and plates. Even I bought a pair of earrings.  The delicate work was hand done and when I see the earrings I will remember the cacaphony of the surrounding metal workers.  Each craft has its own little “square” and a few streets before blending into the next craft.

We made a stop at the rug maker for Moroccan Whisky and the ‘soft sell’  of room sized carpets.  They were indeed beautiful and tempting.  I had to resist this one as I still have a puppy.  But I loved the colors. The prices are determined by the fineness of the work, such as this reversible one that took one woman 18 months to complete, and the thousands of stitches required.  It was a good morning for them since several of our group succombed to the beauty of the detailed patterns and rich variety of colors and sizes available.  BTW this would have been a bargain I am sure at $4,000 starting price including duty and shipping!

I imagine that this picture shows that Kahlid needed great patience to gather our group in these places filled with distraction!

At last we reached the tanneries.   We made our way up four flights, through display rooms, to a display about the history of the tanneries and a brief movie showing what they looked like in operation.  We also had a view of the renovations and the area is vast.  I would have loved to see this in action.  The overwhelming smell, symmetry of motion ,and careful dance required to avoid falling into a vat must be amazing!  Here is a chance for you to get a quick idea.  Seeing this you will really appreciate fine leather and the high cost of quality.  Chouara Tanneries

 

We worked our way back to the street level with temptation at evey turn.  I now know that cowhide is heavier than goat or camel belly and the difference is remarkable   I can see the great value in a Morocco bound book.  Many of the ladies had already bought leather purses in other souks but shopping here took a good hour or more as some were fitted for hand made coats that could be delivered to the hotel.  Unfortunately they did not then buy them so I didn’t see the finsihed product.

Moving on the next area had clothing as evident by these spools of embroidery thread.

Everywhere were bakers and we were careful to always ask if we wished to photograph someone directly. Many would say no, no if they even saw a camera. You can see here that our friend, Cindy, didn’t miss an opportunity.  It gives you a good idea of the typical bread we have been sharing.  It was always delicious and light and airy inside with a chewy crust. I thought this was also a nice view of the Moroccan flag.

Egg delivery for the bakeries and food stalls.

We spent time at the Bou Inania Medersa.It is the most sumptuous of the boarding school, mosque, cathedral combinations built by the Merinid Dynasty and completed about 1350.  It was architecturally complicated to be usuable for all these functions. It is one of the only Islamic religious buildings open to non-Muslims.  The décor is onyx, marble and features beatifully detailed quotations from the Koran.  It is the only one in Morocco to Hve a minbar (pulpit) and mineret.  The minbar is a concave place in the wall.  The Imam faces the wall and the perfect curvature acts as a microphone carrying his voice out to the congregations standing or kneeling behind him.

These windows open from the student’s rooms to the fountained courtyard below.

The intricate work is repeated throughout the building.

This is an example of the intricacy of zellij is composed of tiny tiles set into plaster, similar to mosaic work. This whole design is about 2 inches in width!

Going further, we declined to try the ‘sweeties.’  The tiny black spots you see are very buzzy bees!

Since we are not allowed to enter a religious place as a group, we only had a peak into the Karaouiyine Mosque just as those coming for prayer were beginning the ritual ablutions.  Ablutions are done at a basin carved from a single large block of Carrara marble.  Considered to be one of the main intellectual and spiritual centres of Islam, this mosque, donated by a woman, is still the seat of the Muslim University of Fes.  One of the oldest universities in the world. 

This man was removing his shoes to begin the ritual washing before prayer.  A bit of the fountain can be seen to the right.

Sometimes Kahlid would be like everyone else you know, checking his phone for messages and sometimes he would be helping the ladies strike a deal.  Here Gail is trying to decide on babouches.  These are the very pointy toed, slip on, fine leather shoes Moroccans, especially men, like to wear.

Here a coffin maker sells his wares.  He may wait a long time and a ready made might be needed or he builds to order.

A brides wedding chair on which she is carried to the ceremony gleams in the limited sunlight.  And yes, I believe that is another coffin!  Hmmnnn. Is it an omen?

Happiness continues as we see the many things that make the wedding day special.  Gifts are not wrapped but placed in ornate containers of silk and embroidery to be carried to the ceremony.  Silver for the bride and gold for the groom.  The gifts are personal, not housewares or can be money for the use of the bride, not the family.  The bride receives a dowry from the groom and this is agreed in advance.  It is hers to keep if later they are divorced or she is widowed.

While waiting for Lily and Natasha to finish shopping for cotton bed spreads for their homes we saw this lady drawing water at one of the two remaining fountains while a man waited to drink.  All of the men were patient while the ladies shopped.  I think Elva and I and perhaps the other Judy were the only two who did not go home with more luggage than they brought.

  There were so many beautiful places that I cannot remember all of them.  I think this picture is classic Morocco though so I want to share it with you.

Walls along the way would catch my eye because of the intricate delicacy of the tile work and design on exteriors of homes or shops.

 A water seller carried his goat skin and cups and for 1 dirham you could drink or take a photo.  The lady followed us up and down streets, and around corners for about ten minutes asking for alms.  Kahlid had tipped the water seller and she had seen this but he patted her on the shoulder and spoke nicely to her so she wanted to try her luck.  Her sing-song chant never varied a bit and is still haunting my brain!  Also in this picture is our ‘chauffer.’  When spending the day in a medina, Kahlid hired a local guide to play the caboose and try to keep us together.  Or in our case, he stayed behind while ladies were shopping and then knowing where the next stop was, would bring them to join us. Otherwise it would be easily possible to be lost.  There were few signs which would point to a gate but the gates were never visible.

We passed through the food seller’s souks to the place where our included lunch was to be found.

The chickens above look dead but they were alive and clucking.  They were lying down and peaceful because all their legs were tied together as one.

We left the Medina and were relieved to be in the sunlight and quiet.  This courtyard was nothing special just a relief after several long hours shuffling along with the crowds, at a fast pace and being assaulted by the sights and sounds of the heart of Fez.  And yes, the hat is named for the city.

We found our restaurant for our included lunch and were happy to once again find respite from the chaos in a cool and welcoming place.  The small tables were soon filled with delicious foods.  Here our new Columbian friends are happy to pose.

I had a delicious, tender veal brochette after being served the wonderful warm bread and multiple appetizers to share.

This man was an unusual site in a country where everyone seems to be fine and happy and going about their business.  But no one was paying him any mind.

We spent time in the Mellah which is the first Jewish settlement in Morocco.  Any Mellah is the Jewish Quarter.  Because at one time a Jewish doctor saved the life of a Merinid prince the Jews were placed in the protection of the ruler and in every city the Mellah is near to the palace.  Of course there was also the promise given of an annual levy which continues to this day. We visited the tombs of the Jewish cemetery which is still in use and has space for newcomers.  Once every year families come together and have a bar-b-que in the cemetery.  There is a permanent grill under the blue canopy to celebrate and remember those who have gone before. Sort of like a big family reunion I guess.

This was a surprise to see!  As we walked along the streets of the Jewish quarter we came to stores set up more like we might recognize and items we would require.

But soon we were back in souk-like streets.  Here Jewish merchants built their balconies in the Spanish style, facing the street.  It also helped them to keep an eye on business.  Moorish homes have the balconies on the interior.  I think I prefer the local style as we found those courtyards to be peaceful.

We were now in White Fez or Fes el-Jedid. It is the new city meaning it was built in 1276! This Kasbah was a stronghold for the Merenid against the Fassis.  Until 1912 it was the administrative capital of Morocco. We schlepped our way on out of the Mellah, which is the south of the White Fez, but the atmosphere continued with so many stores that I don’t know how there are enough people to buy all the stuff.  We did stopped to admire the kind of outfit a young boy of seven or so would wear for his circumcision. The barber/dentist also performs the circumcision.  They all have the same trick.  After a day of celebrating they take the boy aside and give him sweets.  Then they point to the corner of the ceiling and say “Look, there is a little bird!”  When the boy looks, snip! 

We did spot a large, bright square across a broad street.  This was where the Palace was located.  It is called the Dar el-Makhzen, and is closed to the public except by invitation.  I was almost glad since it covers 195 acres and by now we had already walked more than five miles today. It did have magnificent doors of brass over wood.

We touched the main door to make a wish.  Moroccans are very superstitious.

A very welcome sight to see but we were not done yet!

We took a short ride to the Kasbah Cherada.  Most of us left the bus to walk through just a piece of the Medina to see the famed Blue Gate. The Blue Gate is green on the inside, the Muslim side and blue on the outside representing the rest of the world.

The thickness of the Kasbah walls is easy to see as we leave the Medina.

Looking back on the gate from the outside world the view was washed out by the fading sunshine against the bright blue sky.  But the elegant tile work is indeed a beautiful sky blue.  The twin minarets make for a distinctive farewell view of Fez.

Street vendors outside the walls are a big issue.  They do not pay taxes and compete with even lower prices than the souks.  This one though had his wares cleverly displayed as we returned to our waiting bus.

A drive-by of the distinctive, triple, Lion’s Gate Kasbah entrance was enough for us. 

Here is an overview of the Medina which we walked from one end to the other while weaving back and forth from side to side!  Five miles registered on my Misfit!

Elva and I each kicked off our shoes and ate a sandwich that we had made at breakfast and left in our hotel fridge.  The End – of a very long, very good day in Fez.

If you would like to know more of a personal view of the fascinating Fez, I recommend the book that Elva and I have read by Suzanna Clarke.  It is a quick read titled A House in Fez and tells the story of an Australian couple who make a riad in the medina their home and attempt to restore it to its original glory.

N