Wednesday, November 25, 2015

Thursday, November 12 ~ Fantastical Fez




This was a very busy day and we needed an early start.  Hakkim drove us to a main gate of the Fes el-Bali, the Medina.  Kahlid dresses in traditional djellaba when we go into medinas or souks.  For him it is not only comfortable but identifies him to the locals as being one of them.  It makes it easier for all of us to speak to the shop owners and to bargain.  Once again as we maneuvered past craftsmen, shop owners, carts of vegetables, donkeys, and school boys racing on bicycles we were followed by vendors selling everything.  Yes, everything.   




 
We particularly are here to visit the famed tanneries.  Unfortunately, UNESCO has provided the money for their restoration so they are closed during our visit.  Even so, the deeper we went into the souks the stronger the smell.
Along the way we sampled scraped artichoke stems which were being sold by this woman in this doorway.
And we tried earthberries. A very round, very seeded red fruit but the inside is distinctly apricot in flavor and the texture of baby food.  I liked them.
It seemed that during the whole stay we kept walking down, down, down more and more steps.  The stairs are stone and can be very slippery.  Vegetable scraps, papers, and dampness can make them treacherous as well as the “non-code” variances in height and width, and of course, the lack of railings anywhere.  What was not on the cobbles were animal droppings.  The donkeys and occasional horses are diapered and there are few dogs.  So that is not a problem.  But you could trip over one of the hundreds of feral cats that wait for scraps to fall or sun themselves in the rare ray that relieves the darkness of the turning alleyways and lanes.

I noticed that elderly men and women are well attended by the younger generation, like this blind man whose tap-tapping cane alerted us to step aside, while his son carried his daily shopping for him as he guided him through the miles of corridors.  The crippled woman was making her way on her own with a half loaf of bread but her daughter walked beside her.

When questioned about the empty water bottles, Kahlid pointed out that we were next to the Al Andaluse Mosque, for which this quarter was named.  This door led to a public ablutions place that would open with the call to prayer.  The attendant would bring water but kept the bottles there in case there was a different person doing it the next time.  Life here is kept very simple. Small wants and needs are happily answered and everyone seems content with their lot in life. 


When there is a wide load the cry of Balek, Balek is promptly met by making yourself as slim as possible!

A street corner…..but most buildings have no numbers or names, and the alleys are not labeled so I am not sure how useful the occasional number is.

  Thanks to UNESCO running water was added to the whole World Heritage Site --- the whole Medina.  To do so, walls were dug out and never sealed over.  Public fountains were shut down, except for a couple of touristy ones, so that people would be forced to use the new-fangled invention of running water, and therefore pay for it. But the water is not usually for drinking and bottled water is a big seller.

We came to a maker of brass jewelry, small trays, ash trays, and plates. Even I bought a pair of earrings.  The delicate work was hand done and when I see the earrings I will remember the cacaphony of the surrounding metal workers.  Each craft has its own little “square” and a few streets before blending into the next craft.
We made a stop at the rug maker for Moroccan Whisky and the ‘soft sell’  of room sized carpets.  They were indeed beautiful and tempting.  I had to resist this one as I still have a puppy.  But I loved the colors. The prices are determined by the fineness of the work, such as this reversible one that took one woman 18 months to complete, and the thousands of stitches required.  It was a good morning for them since several of our group succombed to the beauty of the detailed patterns and rich variety of colors and sizes available.  BTW this would have been a bargain I am sure at $4,000 starting price including duty and shipping!

I imagine that this picture shows that Kahlid needed great patience to gather our group in these places filled with distraction!
At last we reached the tanneries.   We made our way up four flights, through display rooms, to a display about the history of the tanneries and a brief movie showing what they looked like in operation.  We also had a view of the renovations and the area is vast.  I would have loved to see this in action.  The overwhelming smell, symmetry of motion ,and careful dance required to avoid falling into a vat must be amazing!  Here is a chance for you to get a quick idea.  Seeing this you will really appreciate fine leather and the high cost of quality.  Chouara Tanneries
 

We worked our way back to the street level with temptation at evey turn.  I now know that cowhide is heavier than goat or camel belly and the difference is remarkable   I can see the great value in a Morocco bound book.  Many of the ladies had already bought leather purses in other souks but shopping here took a good hour or more as some were fitted for hand made coats that could be delivered to the hotel.  Unfortunately they did not then buy them so I didn’t see the finsihed product.

Moving on the next area had clothing as evident by these spools of embroidery thread.

Everywhere were bakers and we were careful to always ask if we wished to photograph someone directly. Many would say no, no if they even saw a camera. You can see here that our friend, Cindy, didn’t miss an opportunity.  It gives you a good idea of the typical bread we have been sharing.  It was always delicious and light and airy inside with a chewy crust. I thought this was also a nice view of the Moroccan flag.
Egg delivery for the bakeries and food stalls.
We spent time at the Bou Inania Medersa.It is the most sumptuous of the boarding school, mosque, cathedral combinations built by the Merinid Dynasty and completed about 1350.  It was architecturally complicated to be usuable for all these functions. It is one of the only Islamic religious buildings open to non-Muslims.  The décor is onyx, marble and features beatifully detailed quotations from the Koran.  It is the only one in Morocco to Hve a minbar (pulpit) and mineret.  The minbar is a concave place in the wall.  The Imam faces the wall and the perfect curvature acts as a microphone carrying his voice out to the congregations standing or kneeling behind him.

These windows open from the student’s rooms to the fountained courtyard below.

The intricate work is repeated throughout the building.

This is an example of the intricacy of zellij is composed of tiny tiles set into plaster, similar to mosaic work. This whole design is about 2 inches in width!
Going further, we declined to try the ‘sweeties.’  The tiny black spots you see are very buzzy bees!

Since we are not allowed to enter a religious place as a group, we only had a peak into the Karaouiyine Mosque just as those coming for prayer were beginning the ritual ablutions.  Ablutions are done at a basin carved from a single large block of Carrara marble.  Considered to be one of the main intellectual and spiritual centres of Islam, this mosque, donated by a woman, is still the seat of the Muslim University of Fes.  One of the oldest universities in the world. 

This man was removing his shoes to begin the ritual washing before prayer.  A bit of the fountain can be seen to the right.

Sometimes Kahlid would be like everyone else you know, checking his phone for messages and sometimes he would be helping the ladies strike a deal.  Here Gail is trying to decide on babouches.  These are the very pointy toed, slip on, fine leather shoes Moroccans, especially men, like to wear.



Here a coffin maker sells his wares.  He may wait a long time and a ready made might be needed or he builds to order.

A brides wedding chair on which she is carried to the ceremony gleams in the limited sunlight.  And yes, I believe that is another coffin!  Hmmnnn. Is it an omen?



Happiness continues as we see the many things that make the wedding day special.  Gifts are not wrapped but placed in ornate containers of silk and embroidery to be carried to the ceremony.  Silver for the bride and gold for the groom.  The gifts are personal, not housewares or can be money for the use of the bride, not the family.  The bride receives a dowry from the groom and this is agreed in advance.  It is hers to keep if later they are divorced or she is widowed.

While waiting for Lily and Natasha to finish shopping for cotton bed spreads for their homes we saw this lady drawing water at one of the two remaining fountains while a man waited to drink.  All of the men were patient while the ladies shopped.  I think Elva and I and perhaps the other Judy were the only two who did not go home with more luggage than they brought.


  There were so many beautiful places that I cannot remember all of them.  I think this picture is classic Morocco though so I want to share it with you.
Walls along the way would catch my eye because of the intricate delicacy of the tile work and design on exteriors of homes or shops.
 A water seller carried his goat skin and cups and for 1 dirham you could drink or take a photo.  The lady followed us up and down streets, and around corners for about ten minutes asking for alms.  Kahlid had tipped the water seller and she had seen this but he patted her on the shoulder and spoke nicely to her so she wanted to try her luck.  Her sing-song chant never varied a bit and is still haunting my brain!  Also in this picture is our ‘chauffer.’  When spending the day in a medina, Kahlid hired a local guide to play the caboose and try to keep us together.  Or in our case, he stayed behind while ladies were shopping and then knowing where the next stop was, would bring them to join us. Otherwise it would be easily possible to be lost.  There were few signs which would point to a gate but the gates were never visible.

We passed through the food seller’s souks to the place where our included lunch was to be found.

The chickens above look dead but they were alive and clucking.  They were lying down and peaceful because all their legs were tied together as one.
We left the Medina and were relieved to be in the sunlight and quiet.  This courtyard was nothing special just a relief after several long hours shuffling along with the crowds, at a fast pace and being assaulted by the sights and sounds of the heart of Fez.  And yes, the hat is named for the city.
We found our restaurant for our included lunch and were happy to once again find respite from the chaos in a cool and welcoming place.  The small tables were soon filled with delicious foods.  Here our new Columbian friends are happy to pose.


I had a delicious, tender veal brochette after being served the wonderful warm bread and multiple appetizers to share.

This man was an unusual site in a country where everyone seems to be fine and happy and going about their business.  But no one was paying him any mind.

We spent time in the Mellah which is the first Jewish settlement in Morocco.  Any Mellah is the Jewish Quarter.  Because at one time a Jewish doctor saved the life of a Merinid prince the Jews were placed in the protection of the ruler and in every city the Mellah is near to the palace.  Of course there was also the promise given of an annual levy which continues to this day. We visited the tombs of the Jewish cemetery which is still in use and has space for newcomers.  Once every year families come together and have a bar-b-que in the cemetery.  There is a permanent grill under the blue canopy to celebrate and remember those who have gone before. Sort of like a big family reunion I guess.



This was a surprise to see!  As we walked along the streets of the Jewish quarter we came to stores set up more like we might recognize and items we would require.

But soon we were back in souk-like streets.  Here Jewish merchants built their balconies in the Spanish style, facing the street.  It also helped them to keep an eye on business.  Moorish homes have the balconies on the interior.  I think I prefer the local style as we found those courtyards to be peaceful.

We were now in White Fez or Fes el-Jedid. It is the new city meaning it was built in 1276! This Kasbah was a stronghold for the Merenid against the Fassis.  Until 1912 it was the administrative capital of Morocco. We schlepped our way on out of the Mellah, which is the south of the White Fez, but the atmosphere continued with so many stores that I don’t know how there are enough people to buy all the stuff.  We did stopped to admire the kind of outfit a young boy of seven or so would wear for his circumcision. The barber/dentist also performs the circumcision.  They all have the same trick.  After a day of celebrating they take the boy aside and give him sweets.  Then they point to the corner of the ceiling and say “Look, there is a little bird!”  When the boy looks, snip! 

We did spot a large, bright square across a broad street.  This was where the Palace was located.  It is called the Dar el-Makhzen, and is closed to the public except by invitation.  I was almost glad since it covers 195 acres and by now we had already walked more than five miles today. It did have magnificent doors of brass over wood.
We touched the main door to make a wish.  Moroccans are very superstitious.

A very welcome sight to see but we were not done yet!

We took a short ride to the Kasbah Cherada.  Most of us left the bus to walk through just a piece of the Medina to see the famed Blue Gate. The Blue Gate is green on the inside, the Muslim side and blue on the outside representing the rest of the world.

The thickness of the Kasbah walls is easy to see as we leave the Medina.

Looking back on the gate from the outside world the view was washed out by the fading sunshine against the bright blue sky.  But the elegant tile work is indeed a beautiful sky blue.  The twin minarets make for a distinctive farewell view of Fez.

Street vendors outside the walls are a big issue.  They do not pay taxes and compete with even lower prices than the souks.  This one though had his wares cleverly displayed as we returned to our waiting bus.
A drive-by of the distinctive, triple, Lion’s Gate Kasbah entrance was enough for us. 
Here is an overview of the Medina which we walked from one end to the other while weaving back and forth from side to side!  Five miles registered on my Misfit!
Elva and I each kicked off our shoes and ate a sandwich that we had made at breakfast and left in our hotel fridge.  The End – of a very long, very good day in Fez.

If you would like to know more of a personal view of the fascinating Fez, I recommend the book that Elva and I have read by Suzanna Clarke.  It is a quick read titled A House in Fez and tells the story of an Australian couple who make a riad in the medina their home and attempt to restore it to its original glory.








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