This was a very busy day and we needed an early start. Hakkim drove us to a main gate of the Fes
el-Bali, the Medina. Kahlid dresses in
traditional djellaba when we go into medinas or souks. For him it is not only comfortable but
identifies him to the locals as being one of them. It makes it easier for all of us to speak to
the shop owners and to bargain. Once
again as we maneuvered past craftsmen, shop owners, carts of vegetables,
donkeys, and school boys racing on bicycles we were followed by vendors selling
everything. Yes, everything.
We particularly are here to visit the famed tanneries. Unfortunately, UNESCO has provided the money
for their restoration so they are closed during our visit. Even so, the deeper we went into the souks
the stronger the smell.
Along the way we sampled scraped artichoke stems which were being sold by this woman in this doorway.
And we tried earthberries. A very round, very seeded red fruit but the inside is distinctly apricot in flavor and the texture of baby food. I liked them.
When questioned about the empty water bottles, Kahlid pointed out that we were next to the Al Andaluse Mosque, for which this quarter was named. This door led to a public ablutions place that would open with the call to prayer. The attendant would bring water but kept the bottles there in case there was a different person doing it the next time. Life here is kept very simple. Small wants and needs are happily answered and everyone seems content with their lot in life.
When there is a wide load the cry of Balek, Balek is promptly met by making yourself as slim as possible!
A street corner…..but most buildings have no numbers or names, and the alleys are not labeled so I am not sure how useful the occasional number is.
We came to a maker of brass jewelry, small trays, ash trays, and plates. Even I bought a pair of earrings. The delicate work was hand done and when I see the earrings I will remember the cacaphony of the surrounding metal workers. Each craft has its own little “square” and a few streets before blending into the next craft.
I imagine that this picture shows that Kahlid needed great patience to gather our group in these places filled with distraction!
At last we reached the tanneries. We made our way up four flights, through display rooms, to a display about the history of the tanneries and a brief movie showing what they looked like in operation. We also had a view of the renovations and the area is vast. I would have loved to see this in action. The overwhelming smell, symmetry of motion ,and careful dance required to avoid falling into a vat must be amazing! Here is a chance for you to get a quick idea. Seeing this you will really appreciate fine leather and the high cost of quality. Chouara Tanneries
Moving on the next area had clothing as evident by these spools of embroidery thread.
Everywhere were bakers and we were careful to always ask if we wished to photograph someone directly. Many would say no, no if they even saw a camera. You can see here that our friend, Cindy, didn’t miss an opportunity. It gives you a good idea of the typical bread we have been sharing. It was always delicious and light and airy inside with a chewy crust. I thought this was also a nice view of the Moroccan flag.
We spent time at the Bou
Inania Medersa.It is the most sumptuous of the boarding school, mosque,
cathedral combinations built by the Merinid Dynasty and completed about
1350. It was architecturally complicated
to be usuable for all these functions. It is one of the only Islamic religious
buildings open to non-Muslims. The décor
is onyx, marble and features beatifully detailed quotations from the
Koran. It is the only one in Morocco to
Hve a minbar (pulpit) and mineret. The
minbar is a concave place in the wall.
The Imam faces the wall and the perfect curvature acts as a microphone
carrying his voice out to the congregations standing or kneeling behind him.
These windows open from the
student’s rooms to the fountained courtyard below.
The intricate work is
repeated throughout the building.
This is an example of the
intricacy of zellij is composed of
tiny tiles set into plaster, similar to mosaic work. This whole design is about
2 inches in width!
Going further, we declined to
try the ‘sweeties.’ The tiny black spots
you see are very buzzy bees!
Since we are not allowed to
enter a religious place as a group, we only had a peak into the Karaouiyine Mosque just as
those coming for prayer were beginning the ritual ablutions. Ablutions are done at a basin carved from a
single large block of Carrara marble.
Considered to be one of the main intellectual and spiritual centres of
Islam, this mosque, donated by a woman, is still the seat of the Muslim
University of Fes. One of the oldest
universities in the world.
Here a coffin maker sells his
wares. He may wait a long time and a
ready made might be needed or he builds to order.
A brides wedding chair on
which she is carried to the ceremony gleams in the limited sunlight. And yes, I believe that is another coffin! Hmmnnn. Is it an omen?
Happiness continues as we see the many things that make the
wedding day special. Gifts are not
wrapped but placed in ornate containers of silk and embroidery to be carried to
the ceremony. Silver for the bride and
gold for the groom. The gifts are
personal, not housewares or can be money for the use of the bride, not the
family. The bride receives a dowry from
the groom and this is agreed in advance.
It is hers to keep if later they are divorced or she is widowed.
While waiting for Lily and Natasha to finish shopping for
cotton bed spreads for their homes we saw this lady drawing water at one of the
two remaining fountains while a man waited to drink. All of the men were patient while the ladies
shopped. I think Elva and I and perhaps
the other Judy were the only two who did not go home with more luggage than
they brought.
We passed through the food seller’s souks to the place where
our included lunch was to be found.
We left the Medina and were relieved to be in the sunlight and quiet. This courtyard was nothing special just a relief after several long hours shuffling along with the crowds, at a fast pace and being assaulted by the sights and sounds of the heart of Fez. And yes, the hat is named for the city.
We found our restaurant for our included lunch and were
happy to once again find respite from the chaos in a cool and welcoming
place. The small tables were soon filled
with delicious foods. Here our new
Columbian friends are happy to pose.
I had a delicious, tender veal brochette after being served
the wonderful warm bread and multiple appetizers to share.
This man was an unusual site in a country where everyone
seems to be fine and happy and going about their business. But no one was paying him any mind.
We spent time in the
Mellah which is the first Jewish settlement in Morocco. Any Mellah is the Jewish Quarter. Because at one time a Jewish doctor saved the
life of a Merinid prince the Jews were placed in the protection of the ruler
and in every city the Mellah is near to the palace. Of course there was also the promise given of
an annual levy which continues to this day. We visited the tombs of the Jewish
cemetery which is still in use and has space for newcomers. Once every year families come together and
have a bar-b-que in the cemetery. There
is a permanent grill under the blue canopy to celebrate and remember those who
have gone before. Sort of like a big family reunion I guess.
This was a surprise to see!
As we walked along the streets of the Jewish quarter we came to stores
set up more like we might recognize and items we would require.
But soon we were back in souk-like streets. Here Jewish merchants built their balconies
in the Spanish style, facing the street.
It also helped them to keep an eye on business. Moorish homes have the balconies on the
interior. I think I prefer the local style as we
found those courtyards to be peaceful.
We were now in White Fez or Fes el-Jedid. It is the new city
meaning it was built in 1276! This Kasbah was a stronghold for the Merenid
against the Fassis. Until 1912 it was
the administrative capital of Morocco. We schlepped our way on out of the
Mellah, which is the south of the White Fez, but the atmosphere continued with
so many stores that I don’t know how there are enough people to buy all the
stuff. We did stopped to admire the kind
of outfit a young boy of seven or so would wear for his circumcision. The
barber/dentist also performs the circumcision.
They all have the same trick.
After a day of celebrating they take the boy aside and give him
sweets. Then they point to the corner of
the ceiling and say “Look, there is a little bird!” When the boy looks, snip!
We did spot a large, bright square across a broad
street. This was where the Palace was
located. It is called the Dar
el-Makhzen, and is closed to the public except by invitation. I was almost glad since it covers 195 acres
and by now we had already walked more than five miles today. It did have
magnificent doors of brass over wood.
We touched the main door to make a wish. Moroccans are very superstitious.
We took a short ride to the Kasbah Cherada. Most of us left the bus to walk through just
a piece of the Medina to see the famed Blue Gate. The Blue Gate is green on the
inside, the Muslim side and blue on the outside representing the rest of the
world.
The thickness of the Kasbah
walls is easy to see as we leave the Medina.
Looking back on the gate from the outside world the view was
washed out by the fading sunshine against the bright blue sky. But the elegant tile work is indeed a
beautiful sky blue. The twin minarets
make for a distinctive farewell view of Fez.
Street vendors outside the walls are a big issue. They do not pay taxes and compete with even
lower prices than the souks. This one
though had his wares cleverly displayed as we returned to our waiting bus.
A drive-by of the distinctive, triple, Lion’s Gate Kasbah
entrance was enough for us.
Here is an overview of the Medina which we walked from one
end to the other while weaving back and forth from side to side! Five miles registered on my Misfit!
Elva and I each kicked off our shoes and ate a sandwich that
we had made at breakfast and left in our hotel fridge. The End – of a very long, very good day in
Fez.
If you would like to know more of a personal view of the
fascinating Fez, I recommend the book that Elva and I have read by Suzanna
Clarke. It is a quick read titled A House in Fez
and tells the story of an Australian couple who make a riad in the medina their
home and attempt to restore it to its original glory.
N
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