Saturday, November 7 ~ More Marrakech

This morning we have a day at leisure.  But we managed to fill it up and make our best day yet. 

Since the city was founded by warrior monks, the Almoavids, in 1106 it has been a symbol of both mystery and elegance.  The buildings were made of adobe and have the same rosy tones as those of the U.S. Southwest. Even today, if they are made of easy to obtain cement, they are given the same rosy glow.  There is such a consistency of style and color, and decoration with the Hand of Fatima that it is nearly impossible to tell the oldest from the newest.  The streets are broad and clean but traffic is the same game as in Casablanca!

We hated to leave our very comfortable beds and delicious, wide ranging, breakfast but we had decided to take the optional Culinary Tour.  At 9:00 am we set out for the Jardin Majorelle.  They are commonly called by Americans the Yves St. Laurent Gardens.  Why?  Built in the Ville Nouvelle or New town by Jacques Majorelle beginning in 1923.  They were designed to enhance his Mediterranean Blue Moorish villa.  To view the garden soon became a sought after invitation.  In 1947 they were opened to the public. After Majorelle’s death, Yves St. Laurent bought the villa and house as a vacation home. This hidden desert oasis features 400 varieties of palm trees and 1800 cactus species.  The home within the garden is a small Berber museum.  The traditional dress, weapons and jewelry was really as though from picture books, but genuine.  It is listed as one of the 1000 things to see before you die and we did indeed enjoy it immensely.

 

 

From there we continued on to the Marrakesh Museum. It is laid out in the Dar M’Nebhi Palace. It was in the Medina which in the evening was a cacophony of entertainment but during the day is very business oriented.  The small souks wanted to sell and wanted us to buy.  We have some shoppers among us but Elva and I are not.  We were very interested in the history of the place however.

There are two kinds of homes, particularly in the Medina; Dars and Riads.  Both are arranged around a central courtyard.  In a Dar is what the palace was.  A usually tiled open area in the middle of the home with each separate room opening from it.  A Riad is the same except that the central, open area is always a garden.  So even though this was the home of a wealthy man who later became a Minister of Defense, it was a Dar. 

 

 

The exterior walls were the typical plain, non braggadocious style that was typically preferred to be in keeping with the Muslim principles.  The beauty and elegance begins once you have passed through the decorated door. The courtyard within was a fine display of zellij which is fine Moroccan mosaic work.  Ii wandered throughout and went far within to view the hamam or bath.  There are public ones but the rich had their own.  It has three parts; a sauna type room, warm bath water area for washing, and a cold rinse area.  Deep within I found a young artist creating beautiful calligraphy.  When I went out, I led Connie and Elva back in where they were glad to see him and made purchases.

We made our way further into the Medina and once again Kahlid was quite at home.  It was indeed where he was born.  He was so pleased to show us where he first went to school. 

Kahlid explained how the families make their bread.  Each home cannot bake so a young son will carry the risen dough on a large, flat board to the neighborhood baker.  Then we ducked through a small, low, unmarked doorway into the bakery.

He introduced us to the baker who is still the same one who stood in this same oven when Kahlid had the chore of delivering the dough and later collecting the family bread.  The baker knows whose bread is whose by the colorful kerchief in which it is wrapped.  Kahlid also gave the man some helpful news about how he can apply to UNESCO to get the funds to repair his leaking roof.  Elva had leaned on a pole which was holding up the damaged ceiling.  Luckily we were not all crushed.

Next stop was at the Herboriste.  We each bought some wonderful spices and herbs.  The two gentlemen gather or purchase the spices and flowers and grind them or pulverize them by hand.  The aroma was breathtaking and I think everyone chose at least one blend to take home as souvenirs or gifts.  I will not be surprised if most of those stay in our own kitchens!

 

 

As we continued we passed a small tannery and also a motorcycle parking lot.  Motorcycles, bicycles, donkeys, and pushcarts vie with pedestrians for every square inch of cobblestone.  “Balek, balek” is a constant refrain.  Clearly it means, out of my way, I am coming through.  A quick decision must be made to move to the left or right, and for sure hold your breath as the space is tight and the odor can be strong.

 

  Clearly this picture was made at the intersection of several alleys, otherwise it would not be so bright.

After a long morning of making our way through the narrow, cobbled, twisting alleyways we made our way to a Riad with a white tiled garden.  It was a breath of fresh air after the chaotic souks.  Here it was remarkably quiet and cool.  The thick adobe walls shut out the noise, heat, and dust.  We took our places in a semi-circle around a lovely lady who showed us how to make couscous from scratch.  Kahlid played sou-chef and translator. The couscous was a perfect mix of Semolina and white flour, kneaded and rolled between her palms to a fine grain.  She sifted it into the steamer placed above the lamb, or chicken, or beef and mixed with large cut vegetables.  When done a ring of the grain is placed on the plate with a well for the meat and veggies.  The broth is drizzled over it.  The central bowl is served at the table with everyone helping themselves but the Mom serves the meat so everyone get the right portion. 

 

At our large round table the platter was placed in the center.  I ate with those who chose lamb.  First were the Moroccan cooked salads with the selections in separate bowls this time.  There were filled, fried dough similar to an egg roll. A big basket of fresh bread was on the table to use to eat the salads.

Then came main course.  It was quite delicious and we all really enjoyed it.  A wonderful, fun morning.  When we exited to the heat and noise we were glad to quickly make our way back to the bus and our hotel.  What a wonderful tour despite the misnomer.  At the very least it should be called the Gardens of Delight tour, or Delights of Marrakech.  Not a Culinary Tour.  We almost didn’t take it and it was a real experience we are glad we did not miss. 

After a brief check of email and some photo uploading, I put on my swim suit and Elva and I went to enjoy the pool.  We thought we would have a drink poolside but the bar was inside and the sun was close to setting.  I tested the water and it was already too cold for me.  But it was a beautiful pool.  I wish we had had the time during the mid-day hours.  However, it might still have been cold since it gets quite cold at night.  “Morocco is the land of a cool climate with a hot sun.”

Birds were returning to the beautiful hotel Meridien gardens to roost for the night as the sun was setting.  They settled in the flowering shrubs beside us and a thousand voices could be heard making their sunset calls.

I went back to the room to change while Elva cat-napped. 

We then adventured our way across to the mall.  It had been open less than a month but the crowds going there and inside were insane!  Outside was a dancing waters fountain changing colors from blue, to red, to green, to yellow.  Music was blaring from many speakers and children were dancing and running in the grass before the fountain. 

Diners were at the sidewalk cafes and many men and women were chuffing.  To chuff is to watch.  Kahlid jokingly calls it the Moroccan man’s favorite sport!  And trust me, at the coffee terasses and café’s and even just sitting on rocks along the side of the road, they have perfected it!

We made our way through the crowd to the mall.  The shops are not finished but the décor is representative of the local style.  Rounded, keyhole archways trimmed in decorated cedar led into the shops. 

There is a lot of leather and silver to see and to buy.  We bought gelato cones and continued past the high end first floor and second to the third floor.  What a surprise!  It was a kiddie-land with rides, games, a counter with prizes and every type of junk food.  For the older kids were arcade games.  The kind where you can ride a motorcycle or drive a race car.  There were foosball tables on one end and a ball pit for the little ones at the other.  On the fourth floor was more of the same plus a roller coaster with small children and even older ones happily screaming with their hands high above their heads.  Several attractions indicated a partnership with Pixar.  The bumper cars were racing past a backdrop from Cars.

The King  Julien XIII, Alex, Marty and other characters from the DreamWorks Penguins of Madagascar were the central display.

 Moms were in hajib with veils and scarves or in jeans and nice tops, and most also had scarves.  A few of the women wore complete burkas.  Men here dress like men everywhere.  Jeans and button shirts and leather jackets when at leisure.  Business men wear nicely made, beautiful suits, and ties.  Jeans and long sleeve polo shirts or sweaters are worn in the souk.

Somewhat amazed and perhaps relieved we made our way to Carrefour’s for Coca Cola Light and to see if I could get a battery for my misfit.  No luck with that but I cannot complain that three large bottles of Coca Cola Light totaled $1.74!  We went back past the dancing waters and dancing children, risked our lives to cross the wide street, through the quiet garden, through the elegant reception, across the garden paths, up the elevator, into our room, and collapsed on the beds.